If you need a reason to get over your anti-boxed-wine bias, here it is: a round, fruity, earthy Côtes du Rhône from a mini-cooperative known for practicing sustainable agriculture. "From the Tank" is a newly released collaboration between the Estézargues co-op in the southern Rhône and Jenny & François Selections, an importer specializing in so-called natural wines, made largely without chemical manipulation. Before settling on a medium-bodied blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan for their inaugural vintage, "we tasted a bunch of tanks," says Jenny & François’ Jenny Lefcourt, who also chose the utilitarian name and helped design the three-liter cardboard box, which compactly houses the equivalent of four bottles.