The thrill of Italian wine is in discovery—of the hidden nooks and crannies that you don't already know about: bracing whites of the Ligurian coast; heady southern reds, such as Aglianico del Vulture from Basilicata or Calabria's Gaglioppo-based Cirò; the potent of Cannonau of Sardegna. Italian wine has never been better, and the greatest improvements are to be found in the less fashionable zones. Our advice is to check in frequently under this catch-all "Other" heading and allow yourself to be surprised.