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Though not historically the case, the prevailing Australian red wine esthetic—reinforced it would seem by the style preferences of one or two highly influential wine critics—has become one that showcases size, dramatic impact, and concentration. At their best, these are some of the most powerful, majestic wines produced anywhere, and their numbers are increasing. In the past, Penfolds' Grange was the only Australian red to be routinely counted as one of the world's true greats; now the list must include at last a half-dozen that could reasonably claim that distinction.   More