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Chardonnay is the white wine equivalent of Merlot—a vinous Rodney Dangerfield that "don't get no respect." It has become a victim of its own success: sought so assiduously in the marketplace and ordered so often by the glass that it has nearly been rendered terminally banal. And that's a pity since many would agree that the grape produces, as exemplified by the likes of Corton-Charlemagne and the various hyphenated Montrachets in France's Burgundy region, the world's greatest dry white wines. Its significance hinges on its being one of only a handful of varieties (the others being Riesling   More