Until the advent of temperature-controlled fermentation, Spanish whites tended to lack freshness and to oxidize prematurely. Nowadays, with modern technology the rule rather than the exception, Spain produces a plethora of delightful whites, some of the best hailing from Galicia in the extreme northwest, where the Albariño grape is king. And Rueda, in north-central Spain, is home to lovely, fresh, citrus-inflected whites from the Verdejo grape.