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Ever since Paul Giamatti's Miles in the movie "Sideways" uttered the famous line, "I am NOT drinking any [expletive deleted] Merlot," the grape and its wine have become something of a whipping boy. Miles' animus likely stemmed from the fact that somewhere along the way Merlot had already become synonymous with "bland, inoffensive, utterly tannin-free red wine drunk as a cocktail," as in "No martini for me, thanks, I'll just have a glass of Merlot."   More