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Farther south still from Graves is Sauternes and a sub-zone thereof, Barsac, from which emerge the most thrilling dessert wines on earth, including the celebrated Chateau d'Yquem, a favorite of both Thomas Jefferson and Russian Czars, as well as well-heeled 21st century collectors. Grapes used are Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle. They derive their lush, sweet, liqueur-like character from a mold, botrytis cinerea (pourriture noble, or "noble rot"), that attacks the grapes late in the growing season, concentrating   More